🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.