Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
